Guests enter Christmas Town: A Busch Gardens Celebration at Busch Gardens in Williamsburg where more than two million twinkling lights were used to decorate the holiday-themed event. Photo courtesy Busch Gardens, Williamsburg, VA.
Give yourself a weekend’s relief from holiday family gatherings and social engagements with a magical Christmas getaway all your own.
I have to admit I’ve always been hopelessly in love with the holidays, not so much the family gatherings, but the preparations, the events leading up to Christmas and New Year’s, and the decorations. And that’s one reason why I’ve made it something of a holiday tradition in our family to get away at least one December weekend every year to experience the joy of the season with no agenda other than letting the magic of streets decorated in sparkling white lights and the warmth of sipping hot cocoa in a café as the snow filters down remind us of what the holidays are supposed to be—relaxing, warm, and magical. Here are a few of my favorite destinations for both couples and family holiday getaways.
OLD WORLD-NEW WORLD CHRISTMAS: Williamsburg, Virginia
When it comes to the holidays, there is one thing my 4-year-old daughter and I have in common: we absolutely love anything that makes the Christmas season magical, from sparkling light shows and holiday festivals to swirling snowfalls and visits with Santa. Yes, it’s true—I’ve never entirely grown up, which is one reason why our family has happily discovered Williamsburg’s newest attraction: Christmas Town at Busch Gardens.
But the special winter opening of the “Old World” theme park isn’t the only thing that makes Williamsburg, Virginia, the perfect holiday destination. Here you can explore Christmas in the “New World,” too, with a stroll down the colonial streets of downtown Williamsburg.
We began our holiday adventure on a blustery Friday afternoon, checking into the family-friendly Great Wolf Lodge. On Saturday morning, we started the day in the lodge’s indoor water park, which has some 300,000 gallons of water in five pools, eight huge, curling water slides, a lazy river, wave pool, whirlpools, and a giant jungle gym with fountains and sprays.
Not far from Great Wolf, the Christmas spirit is alive at Busch Gardens, where each section of the park is decked in holiday décor native to each country or village. In “Ireland,” Heidi had a “Fireside Feast” with Santa and a dinner theater-style show, and we especially enjoyed the entertainment in England, which included a Sesame Street show and hugs with Elmo as well as strolling carolers and musicians and the opportunity to hang out with Busch’s famous Clydesdales in the Highland Stables. Several of the park’s rides were running, too, and you can hop on the train and visit O Tannenbaum in Germany or watch dancers do the polka.
Our Sunday fun was a little more sedate, as we took a walking tour of Colonial Williamsburg, once the seat of government for the New World in Colonial Virginia. In addition to enjoying the historic area’s traditional Christmas décor of live greenery, dried fruits, berries, and flowers, we also took a guided tour of “Christmas at Home,” where we saw 18th-century living history demonstrations of tree trimming and baking.
During the First Friday of each month, Lancaster City's art galleries, shops and museums stay open late for visitors to enjoy the blossoming downtown culture scene. Photo courtesy discoverlancasterpa.com
A DUTCH COUNTY CHRISTMAS: Reading and Lancaster, Pennsylvania
Anyone looking to recapture the old-time magic of the holidays should take a weekend trip to Berks County, Pennsylvania, only two hours from Baltimore. Situated in the center of Pennsylvania Dutch country between Reading and Lancaster, Berks County is home to the nationally famous Koziar’s Christmas Village just outside Bernville.
Begun more than 60 years ago by William Koziar as a private front yard Christmas display for his wife and four children, the Christmas Village is now open to the public. More than 1.5 million holiday lights bedeck the Koziar farmhouse, barn, and outbuildings, which also house shops, concessionaries, and special holiday exhibits. A small lake in front of the main farmhouse reflects the colorful light display, illuminating the otherwise darkened countryside into a surreal winter wonderland. For those with kids in tow, Santa Claus is on hand to take down Christmas wish lists.
Only a few miles away just off I-78 at Shartlesville is Roadside America. Touted as “The World’s Greatest Indoor Miniature Village,” this 6,000-square foot exhibit features an extensive model railroad with miniature buildings, streets, waterways, even a starry night sky display. The miniature village was begun at the turn of the century by the young brothers Laurence and Paul Gieringer, of Reading. As they grew older, so did their hobby of building miniatures. Laurence, who made most of the exhibit’s structures by hand, finally opened his “village” to the public in 1938. Today the Berneckers, the family of Laurence’s daughter, continue to operate the nostalgic model display, with its panorama of miniatures covering the history of the United States over the course of nearly two centuries.
Dining in the area is generally down-home style Pennsylvania Dutch at restaurants with hearty portions like Haag’s Hotel and Restaurant, which has been under operation of the Haag family for six generations. Lancaster’s dining establishments also include several dinner theaters, including the Dutch Apple Dinner Theatre, which is showing “Miracle on 34th Street” this year.
Lancaster is also home to The National Christmas Center Family Attraction and Museum, which is a delight to young children. On our last visit, my daughter, Heidi was young enough to appreciate the toy trains, displays of Christmas trees and traditions from around the world, and the animated storybook village. And while you may immediately think ‘outlet malls’ when considering Lancaster’s shopping scene, one of the best spots to do some holiday browsing is Kitchen Kettle Village, which features nearly four dozen unique shops and restaurants. We spend nearly an hour browsing the Jam & Relish Kitchen, where everything from strawberry preserves to pepper jams are made on site.
Morningstar Inn is a century-old Colonial revival mansion with antique furniture and modern amenities conveniently located in historic downtown Bethlehem. Photo courtesy of Discover Lehigh Valley.
CHRISTMAS CITY: Bethlehem, Pennsylvania
Christened by the Moravians on Christmas Eve in 1741, the so-called “Christmas City” has certainly earned the designation and not just because it’s named after the holy city of Bethlehem. The city is best known for its Christkindlmarkt, a holiday marketplace, featuring some 75 artisans from around the country, as well as ice carving, a 26-foot tall Christmas tree, and glass blowing demonstrations. Based on the outdoor holiday markets of Germany, Bethlehem’s Christkindlmarkt has been recognized as one of the world’s finest.
The heritage of Bethlehem’s early Moravian settlers is still evident in the city’s historic downtown, which has the nation’s largest collection of 18th-century German architecture. In December, the historic Moravian downtown district is bedecked for the holidays, and one of the best ways to experience the city is on a guided holiday walking tour. Tours leave the visitor center on Main Street in the afternoon and early evenings beginning November 25. Another option for touring the city is on a cozy holiday carriage ride, available from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. and departing from the visitor center.
The Moravians take the celebration of Christmas quite seriously, and one way to immerse yourself in local holiday traditions is by attending the Advent Lovefeast at the Central Moravian Church where coffee and sweet rolls are served during a service of Christmas hymn singing. After attending the Lovefeast, visitors can find some unique holiday gifts at the church’s World Import Shop, which features handcrafted jewelry, linens, and furniture from three dozen Third World nations.
Regardless of season, weather, or day of the week, shopping remains a steady and significant attraction in Frederick County. Photo courtesy of the Tourism Council of Frederick County.
A GERMAN-AMERICAN CHRISTMAS: Frederick, Maryland
When I was a college student in Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, one of my favorite ways to get into the spirit of the holidays before winter break was to take a day trip to the nearby town of Frederick, Maryland, where the downtown historic district was alive with sparkling white lights, historic homes decked out in live greenery and velvet ribbons, and warm shops and cafés tempting patrons with offers of hot apple cider and fresh-baked cookies. Nearly two decades later, it is a tradition I continue with my own family, making the trek to this historic city each December to bring back the youthful joy of Christmas and escape from the hustle and bustle of holiday preparations at home.
History abounds in this architecturally rich town less than an hour northwest of Washington, DC. Some of the buildings in Frederick date back to the 18th century when German settlers immigrated to the region. A must-see here is the Schifferstadt Architectural Museum located in a stone manor house that represents one of the finest examples of German colonial architecture in the nation. Built around 1750, it is the earliest home in Frederick County.
During the holidays, downtown Frederick hosts a number of special events, candlelight tours, kids’ activities, and musical entertainment. The area is also an excellent venue for getting ahead on holiday shopping. The downtown historic district is loaded with antique shops, bookstores, art galleries and craft shops, toy stores, and boutiques. There are also dozens of restaurants and cafés, some featuring live bands on weekends, Sunday jazz brunches, and wine bars.
MORE TIPS FOR YOUR HOLIDAY GETAWAY
While in Reading and Lancaster….
Do This: Explore the Pennsylvania Glass Trail, which extends from the GoggleWorks Center for the Arts in Reading along Route 222, where it directs travelers to various independent artisan studios. GoggleWorks itself covers some 145,000 square feet, hosting 34 artisan studios, dance and music studios, a warm and cold glass studio, ceramic and jewelry studios, and a 131-seat film theatre.
Stay Here: One of the area’s most unique lodgings is the Settler’s Cabin at the Gruber Homestead, a 1700s restored log cabin furnished with pieces from the owner Russell Getz’s adjacent woodworking shop northwest of Reading. If the family is in tow, the Best Western Eden Resort & Suites in Lancaster offers plenty of space for parents and kids with kitchenettes and suites, indoor heated pool, and a full spread champagne brunch on Sundays.
While in Williamsburg….
Stay Here: The Great Wolf Lodge features family “camp style” suites with bunk beds and wilderness décor. The lodge is something of a destination in and of itself with a massive indoor water park, restaurants, an arcade, and educational nature and arts and crafts camps for kids. If it’s just you and your spouse, try The Liberty Rose, a romantic bed and breakfast just a short distance from Colonial Williamsburg.
While in Frederick….
Do This: Visit the National Museum of Civil War Medicine and the Barbara Fritchie House, home to the heroine of the famous John Greenleaf Whittier poem from the Civil War era.
Stay Here: Victorian Hill House Bed and Breakfast or Hollerstown Hill, both of which are within walking distance of historic downtown attractions, shopping, and dining.
While in Bethlehem….
Do This: Both the Kemerer Museum of Decorative Arts and the Moravian Museum of Bethlehem offer opportunities for experiencing historic holiday décor, including 18th-century pyramids of greens covered in lighted candles and fruit.
Stay Here: Morningstar Inn on Market Street is in walking distance of downtown attractions, shopping, and dining and features five luxurious rooms as well as evening wine and hors d’oeuvres.
Deborah R. Huso is a frequent contributor to Chesapeake Home + Living.
Resources:
Bethlehem, Pennsylvania: discoverlehighvalley.com or 610-882-9200 and christmascity.org or 610-332-1300
Frederick, Maryland: fredericktourism.org or 800-999-3613
Great Wolf Lodge: greatwolf.com or 800-551-9653
Lancaster, Pennsylvania: padutchcountry.com or 800-723-8824
Reading, Pennsylvania: readingberkspa.com or 610-375-4085
Williamsburg, Virginia: visitwilliamsburg.com or 888-882-4156
