Owned by Lisa and Tom Godfrey, Godfrey's Vegetable Farm harvets 250 acres of fruits and vegetables that are sold mostly on site to other farmer's markets, grocery stores, and the public (Twins, JAne and Emily Godfrey are pictured) Courtesy Godrey Farm
For years, top chefs around the world have been tapping into farm fresh ingredients to highlight their scrumptious creations. Reality television and competitions have brought this “trend” for locally-sourced produce, meat, and seafood to the forefront of our own consciousness. We have talked to several successful Maryland restaurateurs and chefs about how they work with local food purveyors and farmers to create their daily menus.
1 Harry Browne’s Restaurant, Annapolis, Maryland
Head Chef Josh Brown at Harry Browne’s Restaurant in Annapolis uses Maryland seafood based purveyor Martin Seafood in Jessup, Maryland for fresh, seasonal seafood. “We try to use as many local sources as possible. I work with farmers in Virginia and a produce purveyor in Bel Air for fruits and vegetables,” says Brown.
Brown learned his love of freshness and local product from his experiences with farm to table cooking style in Asheville, North Carolina. There he realized how important it is to work with local purveyors and use the bounty of the region. “Asheville is known for their farmers’ market. We built our menus off their produce each day,” reveals Brown. “I was trained that when you use the freshest products, you don’t have to manipulate it as much, and you can really let the ingredient itself shine.”
Located directly across from the Maryland State House in Historic Annapolis, Harry Browne’s Restaurant invites you to experience fine dining and award-winning cuisine in an elegant setting. Using both local and organic as well as exotic ingredients, Chef Brown creates dishes that showcase bold flavors with a touch of restraint. Brown’s most popular dish year round are the Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes over fried green tomatoes with house made pimento cheese and romaine lettuce.
2 Petit Louis Bistro, Baltimore, Maryland
Tony Foreman and Cindy Wolf have been devotees to farm fresh produce from local farmers for years. They are owners of Petit Louis Bistro, the uptown Baltimore dining venue that features classic French bistro fare in a lively, comfortable setting. “Tony started developing relationships with local farmers over the last decade. He goes to the markets every Sunday to collect the produce that we use in our restaurants,” says Wolf. “All of our chefs work with seasonal ingredients.”
Ben Lefenfeld, Executive Chef at Petit Louis Bistro, works with Wolf to prepare seasonal menus with farm-bought product. “Working with local farmers allows you to support people in your local community and serve food that celebrates a time of year,” explains Wolf.
Among many of their innovative menu favorites Petit Louis Bistro offers a Terrine of local zucchini, roasted peppers and chevre (pictured). Photo courtesy Petit Louis Bistro
Warm asparagus from Godfrey’s Farm with a fresh herb salad and poached egg is a refreshing seasonal item that appears at the height of asparagus season. “August is a very exciting month for pristine fruit. What’s so great about buying from a farmer is it is picked that day and served that night,” says Wolf.
Godfrey’s Vegetable Farm, owned by Tom and Lisa Godfrey, is used by many local restaurants including Cindy Wolf’s Charleston. Tom handles all of the growing and harvesting on the 250 plus acres, while Lisa runs the retail stand and wholesale sales. “At Godfrey’s Farm, we grow about 250 acres of fresh market fruits and vegetables, sold mostly on site to other farm markets and grocery stores. But we truly enjoy the hundreds of families that come to see the farm and to pick [their] own strawberries, blueberries, cherries, and peaches,” says Lisa.
Petit Louis serves dinner every night of the week, offering time-honored specialties such as Mussels Provencale, Pate Maison, and Bistro Steak and Frites. The ever-changing, moderately priced menu showcases only the freshest and best seasonal dishes. “For a chef, it is a joy to work with a product that is at its height,” Wolf declares. “You can get great juice and flavor by using something as simple as a peach. Just cook down the peaches in a passion fruit syrup and serve it with grilled magret.”
On Petit Louis Bistro’s Menu
VICHYSSOISE CHILLED POTATO AND CREAM SOUP garnished with chives using local leeks, onions, chives, and potatoes.
SALAD OF SERRANO HAM, local lettuce and yellow peaches, honey Banjul’s vinaigrette.
WARM ASPARAGUS with a fresh herb salad and poached egg.
Chef Josh Brown’s Gourmet Dishes
ROASTED HALIBUT in a Farm Fresh Heirloom Gazpacho and a Grape Tomato and Mache Salad.
GRILLED BERKSHIRE DOUBLE CUT PORK CHOP over Southern Style Collard Greens, Fried Red Onions and Blueberry Compote.
SICILIAN LIFE GUARD STEW WITH CALIMARI, Blue Crab, and Duxbury Mussels, finished with Pine Nuts, Capers, and Black Currants.
Roseda Beef
Roseda Beef, family-owned and –operated since 1999 in Monkton, Maryland, carefully selects and breeds America’s best Black Angus cattle. They graze their stock on lush green pastures and finish feeding them with grain, never adding preservatives, hormones, or growth stimulants. Roseda dry-ages their beef for 14 to 21 days, then flash-freezes it to lock in its maximum flavor. Some restaurants they service include: Alonso’s and Woodberry Kitchen in Baltimore, Maryland, and Black Salt and Sonoma in Washington, DC.
Tom Devine’s Seasonal Favorites
HEIRLOOM TOMATO SALAD served with shaved pecorino romano and extra virgin olive oil with a dash of maldon salt.
BUTTERNUT RAVIOLI using local sage and butternut squash with a light brown butter sauce.
3 Linwoods, Owings Mills, Maryland
Tom Devine has been the head chef at Linwoods in Pikesville for over 20 years. A graduate of the culinary school Johnson and Wales in Providence, Rhode Island, Devine met and began a long friendship with owners Linwood and Ellen Dame.
Devine uses more than 14 local purveyors including Bel Air Farms, Coastal Farms, Hummingbirds Farms, Richardson’s, Parker Farms, Fells Point Meats, Maryland Quality Meats, Martin Seafood, and JJ McDonalds Seafood. “We are an independently run restaurant, and we like to partner with the independents who are trying to make a living by producing the freshest ingredients,” says Devine.
One such farm is One Straw Farm, the largest organic vegetable farm in Maryland. Since 1985, One Straw Farm owners Drew and Joan Norman have supplied families, restaurants, and wholesalers with the finest certified-organic produce. Many other local restaurants including Woodberry Kitchen, Gertrude’s, Black Olive, and Charleston, to name a few, use One Straw Farm produce in addition to Linwoods.
“We stay seasonal with our cuisine. In August we use heirloom tomatoes and fresh corn to make crab cakes with a soft corn pudding. We use fresh ingredients at the peak of their flavor so we don’t have to do a lot with it,” Devine explains. “You don’t have to do technical preparation with fresh ingredients, all you need to do is slice the heirloom tomato and serve it with a little shaved pecorino romano and some good extra virgin olive oil with a dash of maldon salt. It’s refreshing in August and people like to eat how they feel. It matches the season.”
Devine also uses fresh October squash to create a butternut ravioli using local sage and butternut squash with a light brown butter sauce. “Nothing stays on the menu year-round. If we can buy ingredients at the height of the season at the best price, than we can offer our customers the best quality food at the best price,” says Devine.
Linwoods continues to be one of Baltimore’s top restaurants striving to bring its customers fresh and creative cuisine and fine service in a warm, contemporary atmosphere.
Top chefs know that seasonal, locally-sourced foods are the secret to the most delicious meals. Follow your food from farm to table and chances are the meals you make at home will taste better than ever—without changing the way you cook.
Jennifer K. Dansicker is Special Projects Editor for ChesapeakeHome.
Contacts:
Godfrey’s Farm godfreysfarm.com or 410-438-3509
Harry Browne’s Restaurant: harrybrownes.com or 410-263-4332
Linwoods: linwoods.com or 410-356-3030
Martin Seafood Co.: martinseafoodco.com or 410-799-5822
One Straw Farm: onestrawfarm.com or 410-343-1828
Petit Louis Bistro: petitlouis.com or 410-366-9393
Roseda Beef: rosedabeef.coom or 410-329-3068
