In my profession the most important piece of my continuing education happens when I have a chance to travel to regions of the world that have really storied traditions of the table. It’s always most interesting to share the experience, as I often do, with key members of my restaurant culinary and service teams or wine shop staff that travel with me. My enthusiasms have taken me especially to varied locations all over Italy, France, and Spain. Often, I am asked by friends or guests at my restaurants to give travel recommendations for places that have really great culinary traditions. Here are two of my favorite locales.
Town of Cambrils (Catalonia, Spain) — Can Bosch is located here.
SPAIN
Catalonia is an ancient nation-state within Spain best known for its Mediterranean coast and Barcelona, the capital. Barcelona is a very civilized and engaging city with an amazing market, great architecture (Gaudi’s cathedral, etc.), and many swanky Catalan restaurants. The two restaurants I seem to return to most often are pretty simple places, though. The first is Passadis del Pep, located in the old seaport, Plà de Palau. The restaurant’s interior is rustic yet contemporary and specializes in seafood including whole roasted fish, dozens of types of shellfish—especially Cigala (huge prawns) and tiny conchs—as well as several types of local clams. The other is super casual, quick, and popular: Cerveceria Catalana. It’s sort of a Catalan tapas brewpub. Chiporones (tiny squid) and other simple, quick seafood seared on the plancha is their specialty, but all the tapas are solid. While these two Barcelona restaurants are great, my very favorite restaurants in Catalonia are found in some of the outlying towns, an hour’s drive or so from the city.
Cheese display at Mas Pau outside of Figueres (Catalonia, Spain)
This 1-Star Michelin establishment has a lovely and not terribly fussy modern room, an excellent cellar [with wine] from all over Spain, as well as two approaches in the kitchen, both highlighting amazing seafood. There are dishes—composed and intricate—that can be quite creative and good. The kitchen also does very simple, traditional preparations of all their seafood. This is usually the path I take. A few years ago several of us took part in something of a “Shellfish Attack,” and it was the highlight of our trip…along with several bottles of Vega Sicilia Unico 1987.
North of Barcelona is the town of Figueres, and nearby is another Michelin 1-Star restaurant, Mas Pau, which is set in an ancient farmhouse. The environment is amazingly elegant and rustic. Their versions of some of the classic dishes of the region are among my favorites including Bacalao and a pig’s feet dish that is amazing. Additionally, their cheese cart, featuring cheeses of the region, is the best I’ve seen.
One of my favorite restaurants in the world is Can Roca in Girona, an amazing Michelin 3-Star kitchen. Joan Roca (pronounced Jo-an, emphasis on the second syllable) cooks in a style regionally-inspired yet imaginative and super satisfying. The pastry kitchen is just amazing as well. The wine list is global and remarkable and the room is modern and elegant. The weakest point can be the efficiency of the service, which is still far from poor.
A very favorite countryside resort is Mas Torrent. Food and wine are seasonal and correct—and better in the resort’s more casual of its two restaurants. The hotel rooms are lovely, a perfect getaway in spring or fall. The location is ideally situated to get to various locations north of Barcelona, like Figueres or Girona.
ITALY
While it is hard not be enthusiastic about all parts of Italy for food- and wine-oriented travel, I do have a few favorites.
Zur Krone in Aldino, Alto Adige
The Alto Adige (in the Südtirol region of Italy) is tucked up into the Dolomites and was historically part of the Austrian Empire. German is still the first language. Culturally, this is a good blend of Germanic efficiency and Italian style. The cooking is regional and Germanic in origin, and is executed by thoughtful chefs. Also, the scenery of this region is breathtaking. So, although you can fly into Bolzano, I’d recommend traveling to Verona, spending a few days in that charming city (Opera in the Coliseum during the summer is amazing) and driving up to the Alto Adige. I just stayed at the Hotel Due Torri Baglioni Verona, and it is quite beautiful.
My preference, though, is to stay in a very strange but entertaining place that has an almost entirely Austrian clientele called Schloss Hotel Korb. The setting is fantastic, on the mountainside in a 13th-century castle. The view, coupled with a very nice Alpine breakfast, is just stunning on the terrace.
This spectacular view of the Alto Adige Valley can be seen from the Schloss Hotel Korb.
Great visits are to be had at Hofstätter and Colterenzio, in particular. The J. Hofstätter Wine Estate was established in 1907 by the Foradori-Hofstätter family. Martin Foradori, the owner and winemaker, crafts his estate wines from one of seven vineyard estates that lie on either side of the Adige river. The Colterenzio winery is located at Cornaiano, one of the several picturesque villages nestled among vineyards in the area of cool, rolling vine-covered hills to the south of Bolzano. These hills, sculpted and smoothed by glaciers during the last Ice Age, comprise the Alto Adige’s largest self-contained wine-growing area. According to the Colterenzio philosophy wine should be perceived as an element of the cultural heritage, both in the mind of the grower and consumer. It is a plea for authentic enjoyment, an ambassador of the people who grow and care for it. All these efforts have one final aim: for the wine to be enjoyed, savored with pleasure.
There are several restaurants worth noting, and none are super fancy. Zur Cröne in Aldino offers amazing game dishes, and a short well-chosen wine list. Zur Rose in St. Michele Appiano features a rustic dining room and a solid kitchen. Gasthaus Pretzhof is one of my favorite places to eat in the world. Located five kilometers from the Austrian border, it has an amazing wine list, and a menu featuring all alpine food, most of which is grown on the farm that surrounds the restaurant. Let Karl, the chef, owner, and sommelier organize your menu and help with wine. He is truly master of his house. The cured meats and cheese from their own animals is amazing. The knödel appear in my dreams. (Yes, I have strange dreams…)
Tony Foreman is a Contributing Editor for ChesapeakeHome. He is the founder, co-owner, and wine director of Charleston, Petit Louis Bistro, PAZO, and Cinghiale as well as a consultant for the retail wine stores BIN 604 and BIN 201 Wine Sellers. Tony is both chef and sommelier, holding a Sommelier Certificate from the Colmar School in France. (thecharlestongrp.com)
Resources:
Spain
Can Bosch: canbosch.com
Mas Pau: maspau.com
Mas Torrent: mastorrent.com
Passadis del Pep: passadis.com
Italy
Colterenzio Winery: colterenzio.it
Gasthaus Pretzhof: pretzhof.com
Hotel Due Torri Baglioni Verona: baglionihotels.com
J. Hofstätter Wine Estate: hofstatter.com
Schloss Hotel Korb: schloss-hotel-korb.com
Zur Rose: zur-rose.com
