Cooking on the barbeque is generally portrayed as a uniquely male pleasure. However, since I’m married to a pretty good grill cook, I don’t know that I agree.
While the history and American iconography of the barbeque typically produces mental images of the home cook flipping a wide variety of meat products over a smoky charcoal grill, outdoor cuisine and cooking in general has progressed both technologically and functionally. With new grills from high-end appliance manufacturers like Viking and Wolf as well as new models from old stand-bys like Char-Broil and Weber, people are cooking a vast array of food outside on the grill. New grill technology includes special burners for “stove-top” cooking in pots and pans, special surfaces for grilling pizzas, infrared burners, and on and on. While the technology allows for more creativity on the grill, I prefer the simple, time-honored tradition of food cooked outside over charcoal or seasoned wood.
Technology aside, chefs have been successfully grilling all manner of food for years-it just takes a basic understanding of proper preparation, regulating temperature, grilling technique, and what works when it comes to selecting the right foods. I also find pairing the right wine with all things grilled makes for a more enjoyable lunch or dinner and offer a few suggestions below.
But before I offer grilling tips, first, a quick review of barbeque types. Gas grills, as opposed to charcoal or wood, will provide a much more neutral flavor and are more easily controllable. If you intend to grill a lot of fish and/or have limited experience, this may be the barbeque for you. Charcoal will provide a moderately smoky flavor and hardwood a much stronger flavor: both require management of the fire as well as a desire for a stronger smokier flavor.
Here are some things to remember if you want to grill successfully:
TOOLS OF THE TRADE
A grill grate needs to be clean, which means you need a good grill brush. You will also need a cloth to oil the grate. The cloth should be soaked in neutral oil (but not dripping so it doesn’t flame). Rub the grill grate down before putting food on it -this way the food won’t stick. You will also need a spatula, tongs and something to protect yourself so you don’t burn the hair off your arms. As an aside, some sort of slogan on your apron is always good fun, but not required.
COOKING FISH
Fish must be cooked at a lower temperature than meat. Usually you accomplish this by cooking at a higher height (away from the heat). It is important to both oil and salt the fish before putting it on the fire. Flaky fish equals a flaky mess and should not be grilled.
COOKING VEGETABLES
Preparation of vegetables is important. Depending on the vegetable, either blanch in advance or cut into the appropriate size so all cook evenly. Remember anything cut into a very slender shape will fall into the fire. I strongly recommend grilling Mediterranean vegetables such as eggplant, zucchini, or peppers, as these are easy vegetables to grill with success.
DIFFERENT CUTS OF MEAT
Grilling is typically for prime cuts of meat or meats with a high fat content. If you choose a very lean cut and cook it at a high speed and heat (i.e. grilling) you will have a tough piece of meat to chew on at your leisure. My favorite meats to grill are ribeye steaks (the fattier the better) and pork & veal rib chops. I will admit to not being a big fan of boneless, skinless chicken breast off the grill. There is no fat, you have to cook it through, and it doesn’t taste like anything.
WINES FOR BARBEQUE
Typically, food off the barbeque wants pretty full flavored red wines. Personal favorites include Malbec, Brunello del Montalcino, Ribera del Duero and Red Zinfandel. For fish off the grill, try Provençal Rose and a very light, old-style Rioja.
Tony Foreman is the founder, co-owner and wine director of Charleston, Petit Louis Bistro, PAZO, and Cinghiale as well as the retail wine store BIN 604 Wine Sellers. Tony is both chef and sommelier, holding a Sommelier Certificate from the Colmar School in France. (thecharlestongrp.com)
