Sur La Table's Carbon Steel Wok makes for fast and efficient frying and steaming, and is compatible with gas, electric, and ceramic stovetops.
In the world of kitchens, homeowners routinely spend many thousands of dollars on renovation and construction, yet when it comes time to stock them, often reach for budget cookware. And whether you need to slow simmer a sauce or quickly sear a pork loin, the pros know that gourmet stovetop cookware not only adds to a kitchen aesthetically, it frequently proves to be a great investment for any home cook.
THE GOURMET ADVANTAGE
Quality cookware offers several benefits to cooks. Constructed to achieve optimal heat conductivity, consistency, and durability, it also possesses impressive aesthetic qualities with premium finishes. While inexpensive counterparts may do for a “quick fix,” over time, they tend to be made out of cheaper, thinner materials, a combination that makes for a brief lifespan.
Budget cookware may be inexpensive, “but it does warp and react with acidic foods, which is a major drawback. It will warp over time, especially if very high heat is applied to it, and thin-bottomed pans will scorch food, so they’re not worth it in the end anyway,” says Michael Costa, executive chef at PAZO, a Baltimore restaurant with Mediterranean-meets-metropolitan cuisine. “The basic advice I would give is to buy one really good, high quality set of pans and care for them, rather than buy really inexpensive ones and replace them every few years.”
COOKING WITH COPPER
“Ask anyone that knows his pots and pans: copper is the best,” says Costa. Not only are they considered by many to be the most beautiful cookware money can buy, but copper pots and pans yield the best culinary results, too.
“I am constantly impressed when I cook with copper,” affirms Kate Dering, cookware buyer for Sur La Table. “It truly is the very best cookware you can buy,” she adds. “Superior heat conductivity and distribution are unmatched in copper cookware, which is why it is often the choice of professionals and accomplished home cooks.”
Copper cookware is often overlooked, however, because of its high price tag and the extra care it requires. Copper is not dishwasher safe, and should be polished to remove the patina that forms. Dering uses a paste of lemon juice, salt, and flour to polish hers. (The acetic acid in the vinegar causes the tarnish to dissolve.) With proper care, they can last a lifetime.
The unrivaled favorite for professionals, copper pans boast the best conductivity and distribution of heat of any cookware. Two kitchen essentials recommended by those in the cookware industry are a quality saute pan and a 4-quart saucepan, like these pictured (top left and top center, respectively) from All-Clad's Cop-R-Chef line.
HARD AS STEEL
For home cooks who want something more durable but that will still perform well and last for many years, “stainless steel is a good compromise,” says Costa. “It conducts heat well, it doesn’t react with any of the foods you cook with it, and is not as expensive as copper and doesn’t require the added maintenance.”
While non-stick, anodized aluminum, copper, and cast iron cookware (with a few exceptions) should never be put in the dishwasher, “you can be a little more aggressive about cleaning stainless steel,” assures Dering. “A good, quality stainless steel pan is relatively indestructible and can last years.” Melissa Palmer, vice president of marketing communications for renowned cookware manufacturer All-Clad, recommends using Bar Keeper’s Friend, a professional powdered cleanser, to bring a “like-new luster” to stainless steel.
For those who want stainless steel’s durability and copper’s performance, a product line like All-Clad’s Copper Core provides the best of both worlds. Made mostly of stainless steel, it features a layer of copper that runs along the bottom and sidewalls of each pot and pan.
TOP: Enameled and non-enameled cast iron--like Le Chasseur's Cast Iron Stew Pot--are considered "induction-compatable" materials. Photo courtesy Matfer Bourgeat. BOTTOM: Lodge Logic Skillets now have a seasoned finish, so they have that classic patina look to them even before they're used for the first time. Photo courtesy Sur La Table.
NON-STICKY SITUATION
Non-stick cookware is the choice for many who want to prepare food with less butter or oils and want less clean-up time. But, “be diligent in caring for it,” warns Dering. “Never use metal utensils. The dishwasher is another no-no; hand washing is a must.” The Teflon coating that keeps food from sticking to non-stick pots and pans is delicate, and manufacturers recommend cooking at low to medium heat, as the coating may begin to deteriorate at high temperatures (500 degrees or higher). “Once you start to see little flakes form on the surface,” says Costa, “it’s time to replace it…because you’re basically eating Teflon at that point.”
Sally Horne of Matfer Bourgeat, a leading producer of culinary products worldwide, suggests not using soap on non-stick cookware. “Rinse it in hot water followed by a small amount of oil on a paper towel…and then wipe it out. With time your pan will allow better flavoring of foods when cooking since it will not carry any soap residue.” In addition, “I would definitely discourage people from using vegetable sprays on non-stick cookware,” says Dering. “The oil components polymerize when exposed to high heat and leave a residue that can harden if the pan is not immediately cleaned.”
ESSENTIALS AND EXTRAS
While everyone has different theories on how many pots and pans a cook needs, Costa says that five is a good start. Essential pieces for cooking at home, according to Costa, are a large stockpot, a two-quart saucepot, a well-seasoned cast iron skillet, a 10-inch saute pan, a 6-inch non-stick saute pan for omelets, and a 4-quart saucepan. “You shouldn’t need much more than that,” says Costa, “unless you’re entertaining large groups of people.”
When it comes to additional pieces, Costa mentions black steel pans. “They work really well for things like searing meat and quick sautes.” Black steel (also called blue steel) pots and pans are durable like carbon steel, but more resistant to corrosion. Companies like Matfer Bourgeat supply black/blue steel cookware to 80 percent of the restaurants in France. Its thick-bodied construction makes it suitable for high temperature cooking, even induction.
Induction cooking is another culinary trend gaining popularity in the U.S., according to Dering. Suppliers are introducing new lines of induction-compatible cookware to American consumers.
Induction cooking is a process that involves a high-frequency electromagnetic field that generates heat, transferring that heat to the contents in a given pot or pan. The result is a cooking surface without a flame; it safely stays cool to the touch, and it efficiently heats food as precisely as gas, but in half the time.
When purchasing pots and pans for one’s kitchen, the cook should always go for quality. Trusted brands–with the proper care–will last a lifetime.
Black/blue steel pans are well-suited for searing meat and quick sautes. The handle of this De Buyer Blue Steel 8.5-inch Crepe Pan is angled at 45 degrees--a great safety feature for chefs who have kids and want to keep handles out of reach.
A HOT INVESTMENT
When purchasing pots and pans for one’s kitchen, the cook should always go for quality. Trusted brands–with the proper care–will last a lifetime. Chef Costa still uses a 25-year-old Lodge cast iron skillet that his mother passed down to him.
“[Lodge] is probably the most ubiquitous brand and they have a reputation for quality that they’ve built over many years,” he says. He also uses All-Clad cookware, which Palmer notes, “is built to be a cookware that can be passed down like an inheritance.”
“Better-quality cookware lines tend to outlast their less-expensive cousins and can better withstand the rigors of daily wear and tear without warping or compromised performance,” explains Dering. “Over time, gourmet cookware often proves to be the better investment.”
Annliese Scott is an Editorial Assistant for ChesapeakeHome.Contacts:
All-Clad: all-clad.com or 800-255-2523
Matfer Bourgeat: matfebourgeatusa.com or 800-766-0333
PAZO: pazorestaurant.com or 410-534-7296
Sur La Table: surlatable.com or 800-243-0852
