Chesapeake Home

Photo courtesy of Frances Calvin West.

The flurry of spring activities has quieted down and the warm comfort of early summer beckons us into our gardens. As we stroll from one area to the next, it is reassuring to take in Mother Nature’s progress; the memories of a harsh winter have faded. More than likely, a plant comes into view that needs attention for one reason or another. Perhaps it has lost its shape or is spreading into neighboring plants. “Sprucing up” may be all that is needed for a choice specimen. Then again, those broken branches from the heavy snows need removing. They are obvious now with their lack of green. It’s time to prune!

Here, we’ll concentrate on shrubs and small trees, review the basic hand tools you will want to have by your side, and examine the three growth habits common to all plants. Training your eye will help unlock the mystery of pruning. Interspersed throughout my discussion are important pointers for any pruning project.

To begin, an investment in quality tools will make a big difference in how smooth your pruning cuts and experience can be. I recommend the workhorse, a Swiss-made Felco by-pass pruner, which will never let you down. Buy one for the long-term; parts can be replaced if necessary, including the thin, precision blade, which lasts for years. You can choose from several models but I prefer a #6, a lighter pair for smaller hands. This tool cuts any branches up to 1/2 inch in diameter with clean precision. For cutting limbs measuring up to 2 inches in diameter, rely on the mini-ratchet lopper by Florian. Extremely easy on your arms, the ratchet system reduces the force needed for your arms to complete the cut. The third tool is a folding saw, easily tucked away in a pocket, preventing unwelcome scrapes as you reach for it. Choose a folding saw with small teeth for neat cuts in tight areas; pick a second one with larger teeth to remove hefty limbs (up to 4 inches in diameter) with ease. For the fourth and final tool, purchase a long-reach pruner. Resembling a by-pass pruner on a four-foot pole, this tool enables you to work in uninviting areas without physically entering them. It makes smooth, accurate cuts while extending your reach to high branches. The long-reach pruner minimizes the use of a ladder or the need to climb up off the ground, activities I do not recommend for safety reasons.

With the tools of the trade in hand, you still may wonder when is the proper time to prune. For me, if the weather is nice and I have the time and energy, then it is a great time to prune. If you are concerned about getting the maximum bloom from your plants, follow the rule that plants flowering before June 15 should be pruned right after they bloom. Plants that bloom after June 15 can be pruned in early spring before they set their flower buds for the season. (Fruit-bearing trees have a specific pruning schedule, which will not be detailed here). But whatever their bloom schedule, all plants have three common growth habits: Sentinels, Piggyback Riders, and Free Spirits.

Sentinels refer to growth that is atypical and unsightly. Growing straight up “at attention” with little or no side shoots, you will see that they bear little or no resemblance to the natural habit of the plant. Also known as suckers and water sprouts, Sentinels spring up either from the trunk of the plant and its roots or from its main branches. This growth detracts from a plant’s overall appearance, eventually immobilizing normal branches as the Sentinels mature and grow up through the plant. Prune out all Sentinels as soon as you see them—they will never be missed.

Two pruning pointers your plants will appreciate: 1) leave the branch collar and 2) no stubs, please. The branch collar is a slightly darker ring of cells at the base of each branch. These cells help the plant seal around the pruning cut, preventing disease and insect damage. When pruning an entire branch, prune to its point of origin (where the branch began to grow). Do not leave stubs (a portion of the pruned branch) on the plant because you will invite decay and possible disease. The stub will rot over a long period of time until it breaks off. Aesthetically, stubs detract from all of your hard work because the eye tends to see them first.

Piggyback Riders refer to normal growth that forms on the top of a branch. This young growth has little impact on the weight and flex of its host branch just as a toddler riding on a parent’s back does not inhibit a leisurely stroll. But with a teenager perched on his father’s back, there is a struggle for any movement at all. As the Piggyback Riders mature, their weight gradually impedes the flexibility of the host branch. To prune a plant with thick, heavy branches, grasp and gently pull down on the end of any “father”(host) branches of your plant to look at growth “riding” piggyback. Piggyback Riders are often hidden by the branches hanging from above and can be pruned in moderation without being missed. As some of this top growth is removed, you will lighten the load on the major branches, restoring a natural flex to the entire plant. Take your time and selectively prune Piggyback Riders closer to the interior. Step back, from time to time, to see how the entire plant looks. As you prune your way towards the tip of each major branch, decide when the plant has enough flexibility and openness to its branches. A good rule of thumb for most shrubs and small trees is to prune no more than 1/3 of an entire plant, leaving most or 2/3 for the growing season. There are always exceptions. For example, the Smoke Bush (Cotinus coggygria), can be pruned to the ground each year to highlight its spectacular deep-purple foliage. If ever in doubt about how much to prune, use the “1/3 can go, 2/3 must stay” rule.

Pruning Piggyback Riders also allows light and air into the center of the plant, very important factors for plant health. The center is a great place to begin pruning, starting with any dead branches and then clearing debris and invasive plants such as vines. The plant will always benefit from a cleaned interior and its growth habits will be easier for you to identify.

Free Spirits are branches that grow contrary to the normal growth of a plant. For instance, when deprived of light, a branch will find a new path to the sunlight, even if it means doubling back 180 degrees. This path often crosses and rubs other branches and weaves itself in challenging ways that compromise a plant’s natural look. Position yourself in the interior of a large shrub or small tree (a wonderful vantage point for pruning) and look through the branches to spot any free spirits creating their mischief. It is best to remove this growth before it matures, erasing the potential for harm to the plant’s form.

GROWTH HABITS Once you know these growth habits, your trained eye will recognize what to prune. 1. Sentinels — Known as suckers and water sprouts, this type of growth is found springing up from the root system of plants (suckers) and/or the trunk and branches (water sprouts). 2. Piggyback Riders — Natural growth located on the tops of branches. As young growth, they enjoy the ride on the main branches, causing little trouble. As the plant grows, the piggyback riders add weight to the branches, gradually slowing the natural movement of the plant. 3. Free Spirits — Free spirits are branches that grow contrary to the natural pattern and often cause chaos within the structure of the plant. A branch that starts in one direction, then dramatically changes course (against the flow of the other branches) is considered a free spirit.

Plant clues
Plants have specific areas on their trunks and branches that can guide your pruning cuts.
Training your eye to see these clues is important.
The Buds — When a pruning cut removes part of a branch, the position of the last remaining bud or buds on the plant will determine the direction of growth for that branch. Buds grow alternately on a plant (1) or opposite each other (2). Pruning the ends of branches removes the terminal or end bud. The plant then signals the side or lateral buds to start growing to compensate for the loss of the terminal bud.

These three growth habits can be found in plants you have in your garden. Piggyback Riders are the most common, followed by Sentinels and Free Spirits. Know these three and your eye will be guided for any pruning that you do.

Before you defer to a professional, I encourage you to give pruning a try. In my more than three decades of gardening, I have known many professional and amateur gardeners who have had their trusty Felcos in a pocket (or their hands) as they strolled in their gardens. While other gardening chores may be delegated to stronger backs later in life, pruning will continue to reap rewards for any age. There is always something to prune as we walk through the landscape, and it is prudent to be prepared.

Frances Calvin West has been a pruning specialist in the Baltimore, Maryland area since 1990. She enjoys pruning for over ninety private gardens and lecturing to area businesses and clubs. To learn more visit www.pruningmatters123.com.